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How does the wheel angle affect glass cutting?
First let's consider what we are trying to do with a glass cutting wheel. Actually, we do not "cut" glass with a glass cutter. The objective is to create a crack or "fissure" along which we expect the glass to break when we bend it. The idea is to produce a fissure which is continuous, and of uniform depth, without creating a flaky score line full of loose glass chips.
While the wheel angle is only one of several variables which influence the quality of the fissure, it is the best place to start. The other main variables are wheel diameter and cutting pressure.
The figure to the right shows a typical wheel used on single strength (.062" thick) and double strength (.122" thick) glass. The angle is identified as the included angle to which the apex is honed. When downward pressure is exerted on the wheel rolling along the glass, forces are created (F) which radiate down and to the side trying to shear or separate the glass along the surface. These forces are shown with arrows to indicate their direction. If these forces are great enough to overcome the inherent compressive conditions near the surface, a crack (Fissure f) will be generated along the path of the wheel.
The direction of these shearing forces is determined by the wheel angle. The illustration on the left shows a wheel with a large or blunt angle. Notice the direction of the shearing forces. They tend to be directed downward more than to the side. As you can see, it would require a great deal more cutter pressure to create enough lateral force to overcome the compression in glass. This explains why a cutter requires more pressure as it gets older. The apex tends to flatten so its effective angle becomes greater.
The illustration to the right shows a very sharp wheel angle. The shear forces are directed more parallel to the surface of the glass. This suggests it is easier to produce a fissure with a sharp wheel than a dull one. The shear forces are directly opposing the compressive condition near the surface of the glass therefore, requiring less downward pressure to make a crack. A sharp wheel tends to cause chips and a flaky score. If the shear forces (F) run close to the surface of the glass they are more likely to cause a lateral crack which then breaks out to the surface, creating a chip.
You can see these chips leap out of the glass a minute or so after scoring. Again, the compressive condition of glass near the surface literally squeezes the fissure closed, spitting out loose chips. They can be seen lying on top of the glass.
The photographs below will further illustrate the information on page 1. They were taken through a microscope to magnify the view from two different directions, first, from the top of the glass looking down on the score line, and secondly, from the edge looking toward the end of the fissure. A polarizing filter was used to highlight stresses in the glass.
  
The first picture on the top left is a top view, and the one on the top right is an end view. A proper wheel angle cutter (134º) and pressure was used. Note the score is continuous, and did not produce flakes and chips. The fissure view shows a distinct crack about .012" deep.

This set of pictures shows the effect of using too sharp a cutter, (120º) and too much pressure. Loose chips appear on top of the glass and the wavy lines indicate very high stresses just beneath the surface. The fissure view also shows high concentration of stresses near the surface close to the score line.

A very blunt angle cutter (154º) was used in this set of pictures. The score line is barely visible, while the fissure is quite deep. Additional downward pressure was required to create a score, and the greater pressure produced a deeper fissure.

The illustrations at the left show what happens when you tilt the cutter to one side. It is as though two wheels were used simultaneously. The "B" side presents a much sharper angle to the glass and produces the chips seen above the score in the photo. The "A" side is much blunter and created the high stress seen on the lower side of the score.
Another factor to consider in selecting the proper wheel angle is the "edge". The objective of good glass cutting is to produce an edge which is flat and relatively free of irregularities such as "shark teeth." This photo shows two pieces of double strength glass, one lying on top of the other. It is a view of the edges produced with two different cutting wheels. For reference, each piece of glass is approximately 1/8 inch thick.

The upper glass was scored with a sharp wheel (114º) while the lower piece was scored with a proper angle, (134º). Shark teeth are the occasional deep spikes in the edge of the top glass and the flaky score is evident at the score line. This edge irregularity may lead to failure during the life of a window for example.
The fissure, visible at the top of the lower glass, is made up of individual "hackles" which overlap one another. They have a unique semi-circular shape and indicate the cutting wheel was traveling left to right. Note also, the edge is relatively free of irregularities and there are no shark teeth.
What is the effect of glass thickness?
Most of the glass being used today is produced by the "float" method. In this process the glass travels horizontally from the furnace, through a molten tin bath, through annealing lehrs, then continues on rollers where it is inspected, scored and broken into the sizes required. The thickness generally dictates how fast the ribbon of glass moves. The thicker the glass, the slower it is processed and the more effective the annealing.
The key to subsequent cutting is the annealing cycle. Thicker glass tends to have less compression at the surface and tension in the interior. As a result, the glass cutting wheel encounters less resistance to producing a fissure with the shearing forces shown in the illustrations on page 1. However, this means the glass surface will chip more readily. Therefore, a larger wheel angle is required to prevent chipping. It is also common practice to use a larger diameter wheel and larger angle so the fissure can be driven deeper without chipping.
A typical general purpose cutter such as the steel wheel Fletcher die cast or traditional cast gradually wears the apex with extended use. What started as an angle of 120 degrees becomes rounded and probably approaches 140 degrees or more. The professional glazier frequently uses this cutter on thicker glass,
"the one with the green paint worn off."
What is a "hot" cutter?
Professional glaziers consider a new cutter to be "hot" when it produces a flaky score even on single strength glass. They go through a period of breaking in the cutter.
This break-in actually wears off the tiny points on the apex caused by intersecting lines produced by the grit of the grinding wheel. Each point acts like a very sharp spike, causing a chip. When broken-in, the apex is a uniform line where the two honed bevel surfaces of the wheel intersect and chipping no longer occurs.
Why use a cut-running fluid?
No matter how good a fissure is when scored dry, it is better if scored with a liquid between the wheel and the glass.
Several good things happen with an "oil" cut and only one undesirable thing. The bad thing is you have to wash the glass afterwards, but in many cases washing is required anyway.
A good thing is the fluid reduces the effect of healing. It is probable that the liquid seeps into the fissure contaminating it enough to prevent atomic reattachment of the molecules.
Cut running oil reduces chipping and prevents a flaky score line. The oil tends to provide a hydraulic cushion between the glass and the wheel. This allows more uniform transmission of the shearing forces into the glass at an angle dictated by the wheel, not by particles of crushed glass.
Commercially available fluid such as Fletcher EnviroGOLD contains a lubricant. Its use offers an additional advantage because the wheel and its axle are lubricated allowing free rotation of the wheel. This is important since a wheel not rolling freely may skid. Skidding causes abnormal wear to the wheel and subsequently it becomes a skipper. One should not use kerosene by itself because it removes whatever oil is on the axle.
Premium cutters such as the Fletcher Designer II and Scoremaster II have internal reservoirs which meter out a flow of cut running fluid on the score.
How do you cut tempered glass?
You can't! The glass is cut to size before tempering. See the chapter on Safety Glass.
The following chart is a guide for the selection of wheel angle and diameter.
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Type of Glass
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Wheel Angle (Degrees)
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Wheel Diameter (Inches)
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Single Strength
Float Glass
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114 to 134
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.140 to .215
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Double Strength
Float Glass
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130 to 140
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.140 to .215
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3/16" to 1/4"
Float Glass
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134 to 140
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.140 to .215
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1/2" to 1" Float Glass
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148 to 154
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.245
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Single Strength
Vertical Draw
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114
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.175
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Stained Glass
(Hard)
(Soft)
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134
140
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.140
.140
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Patterned Glass
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114 to 134
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.140 to .175
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Laminated Glass
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Use the wheel suggested for each of the two sheets of glass as if they were not laminated.
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Same as recommended Angle.
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Mirror
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Use the wheel recommended for the thickness above. Do not score silvered side.
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Same as recommended Angle.
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Borosilicate/Pyrex
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88 to 114
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.175 to .245
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